Some foods are simply more divisive than others. I'm not sure what mayonnaise means, but I think it's probably the most controversial condiment. There are those who never eat mayonnaise and who prefer to eat a dry sandwich rather than one who has seen a trace of mayonnaise, and then there are the fanatics, for whom a hamburger does not fly unless it is not accompanied by a big dollop of goodness. stuff leaking out the sides.
Among these diehards, determining the best brand is a truly heated contest. So I chatted with a few chefs to find out if there's a common thread among the pros when it comes to the beleaguered aioli. Here's what I found.
The panel of Mayo afficianados
- Dale Ford: Executive Chef of Devils Backbone Distilling Co.
- Marc Bolchoz: Executive Chef and Culinary Director of Italian Concepts, The Indigo Road Hospitality Group + Indaco in Charleston, Atlanta, Charlotte and Greenville; Colletta in Atlanta and Raleigh, and Luminosa in Asheville, North Carolina
- Travis Kirkley: Executive Chef of Oak Steakhouse
- Dan González: Executive Chef of Winona's
Simply Recipes / Photo illustration by Wanda / Getty Images
The best mayonnaise according to chefs
As expected, there were divisions among the chefs I spoke with, but most of them named one brand as the best: Duke's Mayonnaise. Having lived most of my life in Virginia, I know the winner well.
Eugenia Duke created her namesake mayonnaise in 1917 for sandwiches she sold to soldiers at Fort Sevier in Greenville, South Carolina. Realizing what a goldmine she had found, she launched her own brand of mayonnaise, which she eventually sold to Richmond, Virginia-based CF Sauer in 1929, and has been made here in Richmond (where I am based).
Devil's Backbone Distilling Co. Executive Chef Dale Ford says Duke's is among his childhood and early career culinary memories. “Growing up, it was always in our refrigerator at home,” Ford says. “And then professionally, I remember the first chef mentor who had a firm belief that he only used Duke's Mayo in his kitchens. That was over 30 years ago and I'm still a big fan of it today.
Ford adds that he wouldn't think of making the summer classic, tomato pie, without Duke's, the key ingredient.
For chef Mark Bolchoz, the journey has been a little different. “Thanks to my father's rather poor upbringing, we grew up eating a lot of Miracle Whip,” he admits. “Today,” he said, “it will always be Duke’s.” »
What's so great about Duke's Mayonnaise
According to the chefs I spoke to, Duke's has two big strengths: versatility and spiciness. From potato salad to chocolate cake, Duke's is excellent at delivering moisture and richness, tying recipes together while providing a subtle layer of flavor.
“I use Duke's for a ton of applications,” says executive chef Travis Kirkley. “One of my favorites is to use it as a base for marinades. It's super stable, so you can emulsify other liquids and/or seasonings and marinate your chicken, beef, pork, or just about anything before cooking.
It's the little touch of acidity (or spiciness) that keeps Kirkley wanting more. “It has the acidity and tang to accompany almost any dish. I also like that the ingredient list is short, sweet and to the point. » For him, mayonnaise is a must at work and at home.
As a distinctly Southern ingredient, it's fairly common to see Duke's called out by its name on Southern menus, but it's also gained a foothold in New York, thanks in part to Dan Gonzalez, executive chef of Winona's.
“We use it in the restaurant as a base for our Harissa Aioli for dipping crispy fingerling potatoes,” says Gonzalez. “We were making our own aioli and there’s just no way to get that Southern magic that you get at Duke’s!”
